SAN PEDRO SCOOP! An Expat's Daily Blog in Belize

Our little sister island of Caye Caulker hosts the original Lobsterfest in Belize. Rather than spreading countless events over a full week and a big block party at the end like Ambergris Caye, Caye Caulker goes big. Three nights and two days of a HUGE all island blow-out. Lots of locals, a nice chunk of Belize City, a smattering of tourists, this party is good times.

This is the one weekend of the year where Caye Caulker isn't going so slow. I heard from those who waited until the last minute that every hotel/hostel room on the island was booked for the weekend.

And there really is lobster everywhere.

First let me back up...I need to check into the hotel. Just about 6 or 7 buildings south of the water taxi pier is Island Magic. A pool is still not common place on Caye Caulker. There are really just a handful and very nice to have.

Good bar, good pool, very friendly staff, ocean view, great location just a short walk off the most busy strip (if there is one in Caye Caulker), nice big clean rooms...

The only thing that could be an issue? It is one of the more expensive hotels on the island. But Caye Caulker has a wide range of hotels if you book early enough.

I headed out. Every single restaurant on my walk to the festival is serving lobster.

I was glad to see that my favorite conch shell carver was still in business. I have purchased many earrings here...and I feel like he has been trying to sell these conch breast charms for 6 years. Maybe he just keeps making new ones.

I headed down to where all the tents were set up...

And there were about 20, each one grilling fresh lobsters.

Most simply prepared and I thought CHEAP. When I stopped for one, your choice was Butter, Garlic, Creole or Curry. We got whole lobsters grilled with the chosen sauce, rice & beans, cole slaw and plaintain for $25bzd. ($12.50 USD) And it was GOOD.

Yum, yum, yum. This picture was still early in the morning...by noon the main drag was PACKED.

We headed down to the split where a huge beach party was going on. Blasting reggae and dancehall music, tons of people in the water and at the bar, boats pulling in...a very fun crowd.

Kids were waiting in line to walk out on this long and totally unstable log over the water.

Even our area representative, Manuel Heredia and his wife were enjoying a beer at the Split. I didn't see him get up on the log though.

We watched these kids on the log until the sun went down and the DJ turned it up. Endlessly entertaining...

We stayed at the split for many more hours enjoying the dance. The generator stopped working for about 15 minutes and the whole island was without power. Not so bad...still fun to sit around under the moon light and have some more beers. But get this...the Lazy Lizard doesn't serve when the power is out. Their computer doesn't work. I'm not going to lie, I was stunned. They lost a good part of their crowd.

The next day my goma (the local word for hangover) came on strong. Something about a full day of beer that can leave you feeling...just...ick the next morning.

But there is no time for hanging around the room (though it was blissfully cool)...time to get out and find some breakfast. Yesterday was a gorgeous day and kids were already setting up for a day at the beach.

I passed this very cool outside movie theater...not exactly sure how it works but fun idea.

This breakfast place was hopping...and the food delish. Grilled cheese on THICK alcohol absorbant goodness. A bit of hair of the dog doesn't hurt either.

Back down to the festivities for a bit more lobsterfest before heading home...

Sunday was going to be even more crowded, the crowd from San Pedro was coming in droves.

So the question that everyone is going to ask: How is Caye Caulker lobsterfest different from our one in San Pedro? Very. But Caye Caulker itself is very different from Ambergris Caye. This lobsterfest feels more local and authentic, a bit less "corporate", you feel like you are buying your lobsters from the fisherman direct.

This lobsterfest (like Caye Caulker itself) is smaller, cheaper and younger. At the late night party at the Split, I think the average age was about 25. And the average attendee? Definitely Belizean. And the music is LOUD.

It's a fantastic festival. My suggestion (and what I will do next year)? Go for the day on Sunday. Grab a table at the split. As you can see below, the big speakers are set up for another day of music. Or do the sail over from Ambergris Caye on one of the catamarans. How fun would that be?

If you are a serious party person, a real night club person, Saturday is your night. The main tent had DJs that played until 4am and I hear it was packed. After a day of lobster, beers and the sun, that was too much for me.

As my water taxi took off for the return back to San Pedro, we passed the Coast Guard dropping some co-workers off. I'm telling you...EVERYONE was at this party.

I was strolling down front street a few days ago...or was I prancing? Either way...I ran into the huge impediment that has been erected right in the middle of the street. The San Pedro clock tower. A structure that caused lots of controversy when it was announced and then became one of the fastest building projects I've ever seen on Ambergris Caye.

I noticed this new plaque at the base...

And here she is in her glory.

Since I have been going through all my pictures recently, I thought I'd see how fast this thing really was built. Love it or hate it...here it is.

The project was announced in October 2011 after the hole was dug in the middle of the street. Lots of residents were really worked up. Some about the jumbo-trons that would be installed and many about the location.

Others reacting to what the former mayor said on our popular morning TV show...basically that unless you can vote in Belize, you have no say. (Generally for an American expat that can take about 10 years.)

But a few weeks later, the cement was pouring...

And just two weeks later...

We were provided a pictorial.

So far I haven't seen anyone posing beneath it like that...

The first week in December, it was really coming together.

And by Christmas, it was just about finished. Everything was installed...but the big screens and the clock weren't working yet.

So start to finish, an incredible 2 months.

My favorite look for the clock tower so far? It's Carnaval cover...I don't need to look at it for one whole week in February. Very festive covered in brightly colored handprints.

There it is. I will have to admit...as time goes on I am less and less aware of it during the day. But at night, it is a flashing neon beacon on the horizon advertising the crap out of Ramon's Village.

What do you think?

One last thing...I met Martha at El Divino a few nights ago and she was so kind about my blog that I promised I would put her on it...both for her and to make her son at home jealous. Thanks Martha for reading!

And starting tomorrow, I'll be writing from a non-island location for a few days. Have a great Fourth of July!

Yesterday afternoon I boarded the San Pedro Belize Express Water taxi to make a trip out to the mainland with a friend. She had an incredible offer to visit Hidden Valley, a resort on a massive 7200 acre reserve in the Pine Ridge area of Western Belize...and there was no way I wasn't going to tag along.

The water taxi is offering the round-trip ticket San Pedro/Belize City for only $45bzd for the month of July. You can't beat that...

And yesterday was a gorgeous day for a boat ride.

Only one hour and 15 minutes. I'm a big fan of sitting on top for the view and the breeze.

Walter, a driver and tour guide from the lodge, picked us up at the water taxi terminal. Hey, that's me!

We made a brief pit stop on the highway at Cheers Bar. I've been here before and am always a bit baffled by the signs. Some sort of holdover from the British army guys stationed in Belize...can anyone translate?

Perhaps those very same soldiers contributed to this massive t-shirt collection

We continued on the San Ignacio (the closest large town) to pick up another guest and then off to the Inn.

About 45 minutes down a well maintained dirt and red clay road we came to the...

Little did I know that we had climbed 2000 feet and that Hidden Valley is the highest elevated resort in all of Belize. For a more specific location, here is a map that I snagged from Frommers.com.

As you can see...there are a ton of attractions including Mayan Ruins (like Caracol, Belize's largest), water falls, caves and rivers to see.

And that means that I am off for a day of outdoorsy fun. The falls, a coffee plantation, bird and animal watching. I'm pretty excited. My feet? Not so much. They are in a closed pair of shoes (non flip flops) for the first time in about 8 months. Let's see how they do.

Here are some quick pictures of the resort. It is absolutely fantastic.

The great room in the lodge. Every room has a fireplace. In Belize! And it makes sense...last night, after a warm sunny day, we enjoyed blissfully chilly sleeping weather. (Well...chilly for Belize, I'm guessing it was probably in the mid 70s.)

Our welcome hand massages...

My eggs benedict this morning.

Many many more pictures tomorrow.

Yesterday I described how I travelled from Ambergris Caye to Hidden Valley Inn in the Cayo district of Belize. Once here there is almost too much to keep you occupied.

We decided to take a morning tour around the property with one of the guides. Like I mentioned yesterday, Hidden Valley Inn is set on 7200 acres of mountain ridge pine forest. You could spend all week hiking the 90 odd miles of trails or visiting what seems like countless waterfalls and pools. (All of you suffering with 100+ degree temperatures in the US should be way jealous right now.)

As soon as we headed out I realized "Scoop, you are not in San Pedro anymore". Western Belize is like another planet. You go from the bright whites and blues of the beach to green...everything is incredibly green. And the fresh crispy air that smells of...well...pine trees. Maybe I am the outdoorsy type!

We stopped by Lake Lolly Folly. A great name for the man-made lake that the first owner created in 1960 and stocked with large mouth bass.

We saw some smaller falls like King Vulture Falls. A baby at around 800 or so feet. Apparently they are in the beginning phases to set up rappelling here! YIKES!

On my request, we went to check out the food they grow on the property. I had never seen coffee, one of my very favorite food groups, growing.

Looks to be a good year...but then, what do I know. All I know is that they serve the Hidden Valley coffee in the lodge and it is really good. Best I've had in Belize actually.

They have a small grove of macadamia nut trees. Not native to Belize but pretty cool...

Apparently they are so much work, so difficult to crack, that they leave them for the peccaries (a smaller, hairy wild boar that lives in these forests.) I know this is not particularly eco-, sustainability minded and Hidden Falls does not think this ever...but imagine a macadamia raised pork? Mmmm....

On to the One Thousand Foot Fall, the largest water fall in Central America! Pretty cool to have your inn five minutes away from that. And until relatively recently, the falls were part of the Hidden Valley property but have since become a national park.

A well placed bit of graffiti. Indeed there would be tears if you plummeted into this very deep river valley.

We met Mr. Peter, the park ranger and the guy who collects the $1 USD entrance fee. He was very glad to have his picture taken, he says that he is famous around the world.

He let us know that the falls are actually 1600 ft. high (long?) and that there were measured "not too long ago". A guy rappelled over them to measure, didn't have enough line and had to come up to start again. Whoops. It is really tough to tell just from the look-out how tall they really are. Mr. Peter estimates that you can only see half of them.

Impressive. Plummeting 1600 feet over granite into the Barton Creek.

We headed down to the last, the smallest and potentially most popular, Butterfly Falls, our only true hike of the day. It's about 20 minutes both ways and you want to be sure footed.

Grab one of the walking sticks. You'll need it in a few spots.

We passed our first "camera trap". They are knee high motioned detectors and snap a quick picture of whatever is walking by. So I'm sure some lucky scientist somewhere will be reviewing my muddy sneakers soon...but look at these AWESOME shots they've taken over the past months. I've always dreamed of seeing a jaguar in the wild. (Both pictures borrowed from Hidden Valley Inn's Facebook page.)

Awesome.

There is one little bridge over the creek.

And then you see this.

An almost perfect looking waterfall. Our guide told us about how the resort has done weddings in this very spot. Love the idea. Although hiking down in your dress...that is for the true adventurer. Actually the bride generally has her dress carried down to the falls. Imagine the ceremony? And if you want, very fun pictures wading into the water and hiking back up in your finery.

The falling water is gorgeous. And supposedly great swimming. I felt the very chilly water with my feet and retreated immediately.

Driving around the property, there are countless signs for more trails, water falls and swimming areas. There are the Secret Falls, where the lodge brings honeymooners for a special private picnic with wine and flowers. We spotted a large stygian owl dancing side to side high in the pine trees. This land is incredibly beautiful even after much of the property burned in a serious forest fire (started by lightening) just over a year ago. You'd hardly know it. It's amazing how resilient the forest can be.

Feeling quite pleased with ourselves, we headed back to the lodge for lunch and perhaps a dip in the pool. I have much more to tell you (whether you like it or not) about the rooms and the food. OH the food.

But now it is time to head back to the island.

What was I posting about one year today? A michelada recipe and the beginning of my year long vacation and a Look Around the DFC Area of San Pedro.

In my post yesterday, I was patting myself on the back for getting outdoors, for being a bit rugged. (See my post about the water falls and wild life of Hidden Valley Inn.) And...well...some of you who have visited Hidden Valley called me out. Pointed out that it is very easy to hike and enjoy the outdoors when you are eating and staying in 5 star accommodations. And...sigh...you are right.

Here is a look at the gorgeous lodging and food at Hidden Valley Inn.

So here is how I was really living...The rooms are large and clean. Each with a small sitting area, desk and a fire place! Good sheets, good mattress, good pillows, good products in the bathroom, good Wi-Fi. I was very happy.

Just outside the door so you can feed the fire on cool nights.

And the bathroom in the suite. My first real bath in years felt...awesome.

And through the door is this very cool outside shower.

The water comes from this orchid covered rock formation. But I kept my focus on the bath tub.

There was even an screened in outside porch with a hammock and sitting area.

Here are some photos in the main lodge.

And if you get sick of swimming in natural pools at the bottom of waterfalls...

What is a girl to eat while roughing it in the wilderness?

The dinner menu changed each night.

(If you are looking for something lighter or just different, there is a regular menu with pizzas, salads and sandwiches for both lunch and dinner.)

In case you are worried that you burned off too many calories hiking and swimming. Some eggs benedict for breakfast...

And an over-the-top double lobster tail with honey, truffle cream sauce laced with crab meat, shrimp and calamari.

And yes, it tasted better than it looks.

Okay, enough food porn. It wasn't just the food and the room that I loved at Hidden Valley. My favorite thing might have been the staff, and there are lots of staff members. Each and everyone called me by name each time I saw them. From the bartender to the guides, they were all incredibly friendly and they all knew my name. I am a total sucker for stuff like that.

Many people that visit Belize do a half/half trip. A few days in the jungle followed by a few on the beach. Yes, it is more expensive and yes, the travel can eat up 3-4 hours of your trip but it is totally worth it. Imagine lying on the beach and never seeing the jungle, the animals, the Mayan ruins? Belize is lucky enough to have both in such a small country. Almost like two totally different vacations.

Anyway...all of this, the cool nights and my condo here in San Pedro that is in dire need of a scrubbing is making me miss it. I think you can pick up what I am laying down...I love Hidden Valley Inn. And I will be back. I still need to see Caracol (the largest Mayan ruins in Belize)...

And, of course, this.

I will admit, I haven't spent extensive time in our nation's capital of Belmopan. I've been there numerous times for government business, I've had a few drinks, a few meals, had crazy fun at the Belmopan Agriculture Trade Show, I've played some pool, I've purchased some cheap, fresh fruits and vegetables, I even came very close (VERY CLOSE) to shaking hands with Prince Harry. Yes, THE Prince Harry. (Wait a second, maybe I HAVE spent extensive time in this town...)

And then I caught a bus and high tailed it out of Belmopan. It's a very small town.

And a relatively new capital city. After the horrific hurricane, Hattie, in 1961 (and an even more horrific one in 1931) that devastated Belize City on the coast, the decision was made to move inland. Hattie packed winds of up to 190mph and destroyed up to 75% of the country's biggest city. Belmopan became Belize's capital in 1970.

Here is Hurricane Hattie's path in October/November 1961. Pink means Category 5. Knock on mahogany and hope we never see this again! Eeek.

Anyway...Belmopan is still a small town mainly focused on all of the government business that is done there. It tends to be busy during the week and DEAD on the weekends.

Here is what I did a few days ago with one free hour before catching the $4bzd, 1 hour express bus from Belmopan to Belize City.

A delicious rotisserie chicken, double starch plate at one of the most popular restaurants for $10bzd.

They even have a facebook page!

And then we swang (that's a word, right?) around the corner to the pharmacy. Drugs in Belmopan seem to be about 50% less than in San Pedro. And I am out of Ibuprofen (and waiting for my next shipment of faux Advil from the states). At my local grocery store, I pay $1bzd for a 400mg tablet. At this pharmacy in Belmopan, I paid 35 cents.

Next time I'm there, I'll have to inquire about the poisons.

What was I posting about one year ago today? My Thursday Night at the Chicken Drop

Summer and the slower season have definitely arrived in Belize. Here on the island, it's hotter, the chances of rain have increased (particularly at night) and the kids are out from school. Many of them hit the beach yesterday.

We are also between the big festivals. Mid to late June brings the Lobsterfest all over the country and the first weekend in August, the International Costa Maya to San Pedro.

My cat has no problem amusing herself. I know this is cruel of me...but it is what she does outside! She collects lizard tail. This is yesterday afternoon's harvest.

That's her "don't mess with my tails" look. Did you know that the tail kicks around for a full minute after removal? Gross...I know. I don't encourage it. But a cat has a one track mind.

Many properties use this summer/fall season to do a bit of maintenance work. Royal Palms (the condo community where I reside) drained their pool this week and is giving it a good scrub.

Note to residents: No late night swims after a few drinks until the weekend!

But fear not, if you are visiting, there is still PLENTY going on. Not exactly dog days. Businesses are in full swing. If a business closes (and not many do anymore), it is not until September or October.

Belikin has even released a new citrusy, light Verano Belikin for these very dog days. I'll let you know when I get my hands on it!

For a full calendar of upcoming events, scroll to the bottom of this blog.

And for me? My best friend, Jamie, arrives tomorrow for 7 full weeks. Good. Times.

What was I doing and posting about 1 year ago? A Trip to Caye Caulker with Seaduced

Yesterday, I asked for a lunch suggestion on the San Pedro Scoop facebook page. I promised to lunch at whatever place received the most votes. And I got tons of votes. Over 60. People voted for Elvi's Kitchen, Ramons, Mickey's, Caliente, Blue Water Grill, Wild Mango's, Red Ginger, El Fogon, Caprice, Hemmingways Cafe, Victoria House, Mesa Grill, Mathieu's and more. So I counted the votes on facebook and email and the winner? Caliente. Did I go? No. I went to Wild Mango's instead. It was raining! And Mango's outside deck is protected from the rain.

Here is my protecting roof decorated with old buoys.

And yesterday specials. But I always choose one of two things.

I had the buffalo chicken wrap. Delicious rainy day comfort food. Creamy dressing, avocado...yummy. And half is packed up for dinner. Economical too!

Today, I promise, I will eat at Caliente. I love Caliente. See the hardship that I go through for you guys?

On my walk into town, I noticed two changes.

Abdul has moved his store La Isla Grocery (the store across the street from the Belize Yacht Club). When I lived in that neighborhood, I must have visited his store 4 times a day. And he remains one of my favorite store owners in town.

Previous store front:

And now...

The store has moved a few buildings south to the large old Orange Store building. That place is NICE inside...this will be a good upgrade.

In town, the turnover continues on this corner bar right in the middle of town. In the past three years, it has been Stadium Sports Bar, Croc's Bar (pictured here in December 2011)...

here it is in April 2012 as San Pedro Starz

And now...

Interesting name...

And who said I don't take pictures of myself?

They have a small menu...burgers, wings, hot dogs. I wish them luck.

No comment.

What was I blogging about one year ago? Cats Make the Single Gal Look Cool

In an attempt to get into some sort of better shape, we went for a morning walk. It's turning out to be a beautiful day and I haven't been that far down south in a few months. Here is what I saw:

We are getting into the jelly fish season. Luckily, for the most part, these things are relatively easy to spot. They look like purple balloons. But you definitely need to be carefully of the far reaching tentacles underneath. Ick.

A bit farther down the beach, at this house...

They are planting about 10 LARGE Royal Palms. Each is about 20 feet tall...maybe taller...

Strange how small the roots are for a tree this size.

There is an intricate web of black cords holding them up. Hopefully they put some flags on the cords...or someone on a bike is really going to clothes line himself.

We got down to the palm tree dragons...the end of the line if you are walking on the beach.

On the way back home, we ran into a small crowd watching these guys tie up a crocodile that was swimming in the ocean. In the OCEAN!

They promised that they were going to let it go in the lagoon.

What was I blogging about one year ago? Lunch at Caliente's And Mysterious Fruit: Kinep

Each year, for the past 13, education and marine biology students from Smith College (in Northampton, Massachusetts) come to San Pedro to run a 2-3 week FREE summer camp with Hol Chan Marine Reserve for the kids of San Pedro. On Thursday night, one of the graduates invited me to attend the party at the San Pedro Lions' Den.

One cool thing about this program? They teach the kids all about the island's environment, how it works and how we need to conserve it, through games, super cool artwork, lessons, songs and visits. Another cool thing? I went to Smith College (Class of 1995) and had no idea this was going on in San Pedro. (Okay...probably just cool to me.)

The kids performed some songs about the mangroves, reef and even coral polyps. (They are graduating knowing WAY more than I do.)

The place was PACKED. I'm guessing about 100 kids went through the camp over the past 2 weeks.

My favorite song was a remix of Aretha Franklin. The coral reef needs a little R E S P E C T too. Or the little diddy about zooxanthellae (tiny plant cells that live on and feed the reef) and coral polyps. Always good to learn a new word.

The kids two favorite parts of the night? When they first arrived, there was a running slide show of all the campers and their activities. They were glued to this for about half an hour.

And the food...oh the food! It was like a feeding frenzy at Willie Wonkas.

It was very funny watching kids LOAD up plates of goodies...

Even funnier was that the menu was comprised of two food groups. Candy, cakes & cookies and chicken wings. A strange mix...

8 out of 9 kids at the event agree. Chicken wings are their favorite dessert.

I don't think there was much sleeping that night.

Great job ladies from Smith College and Hol Chan Marine reserve. What a great program to help kids kick off their summer in an important and extremely constructive way.

What was I blogging about one year today? 70 British Storm Pedro's Inn (PARTIAL NUDITY ALERT) and Asking Question About the Annual Butterfly Migration

For all of you who like the bar and late night scene of San Pedro, I apologize. I hope that many of my posts over the next few weeks will be similar to this one. Good old fashioned walks on the beach. My best friend has arrived for the summer and we, AGAIN, have devoted ourselves to fitness and clean living. Well...at least for as long as it lasts. Some summers we do well and some we don't.

Wish me luck.

Until I'm back in my normal state, here is what I saw yesterday.

This crab was not happy to see me. Does anyone know what is beneath her? Eggs? Or is that what a land crab usually looks like?

Xanadu is doing some sort of construction with this gorgeous piece of timber. I would estimate that it is 4 feet in diamater.

The construction guys insisted that it will be a bench...but a bench for 10 foot tall individuals? I'll have to wait and see.

Down close to the Belize Yacht Club, a new spa is doing massages out on this long pier.

Here are some pictures of my walk south in the morning. It really was a gorgeous day. Hot and sunny but with a nice cool breeze off the ocean. I'm guessing we only have a few more weeks until the breeze disappears. But, knock on wood, the hurricane season has been fairly kind to the Atlantic so far.

Have a great day.

What was I blogging about one year ago today? My Favorite Meal in San Pedro. I wish I was eating this right now.

On January 31st 2012, I had no internet and was distraught. So, I bought a new "gadget" that is relatively new to the island. This little USB internet stick from Smart would provide me service, was relatively cheap and promised to be relatively quick. I told you guys about it and promised a follow-up. Well...here it is:

For the previous year before I bought this stick, I was sharing Wi-Fi with the couple that lived directly below me.

Any internet in Belize is EXPENSIVE. You can purchase super slow 128k speed for $49bzd a month (it will take you back to your dial up days...You've Got Mail!) to workable 512k speed for $179bzd to faster 4MB for $850bzd. $850bzd!!!!!!!!!!! Holy shit. This is all after a $150 installation fee and two visits from the phone or cable guys.

I want something easier but DEFINITELY cheaper. So I talked to one of the cell phone service providers...Smart.

I bought their USB stick. (But I am repeating myself like CRAZY...all of this was mentioned in my earlier post.)

The actual USB stick costs $185 BZD and is yours to keep. You can use it in up to two computers. The internet time is sold as follows: $30bzd for 1GB (which they tell you is good if you only email, IM and download/upload pictures) up to $90bzd for the 10GB plan (which gives you time to Web browse, play online games, video stream and lots of other options.)

The speed I was told that I would get is 300-400k uploading and 450-550k downloading. About the same as the $180bzd monthly fee that Coral Cable is charging for the same speed.

Results? The speed is always the same but mostly better using the USB Smart stick as compared to the medium speed Wi-Fi I was sharing before. In fact, I just used www.speedtest.net to test out my internet speed right now (6:30am, Monday morning) and it is 1.03MBs downloading speed and 430k uploading speed. (I have tested the download speed a few times since January and it is ranges between 1MB and 1.5MB.

For all of you in other countries, it is not FAST but it's really not so bad. And guess what? After the initial investment ($185bzd for the stick), this thing is CHEAP!

When I purchased it at the end of January, I bought the $90bzd plan (it expires after 90 days). It lasted 87 days. And I use the internet for at least 3 hours a day.

In April, I paid another $90bzd for my second package. And I'm still using that.

So...for what I consider solid, portable internet...I am paying about $30bzd a month.

Problems/Things I Would Change:

1. To check you balance (MBs you have left), you need to call the Smart office. I wish that there was an easy way to check it online. (Note: If you have a Smart powered cell phone, you can check your balance via text message. I don't...I am a Digicell gal through and through.)

2. There was a week and a half period in May or June (I don't remember) where this thing didn't work. Not at all. They were switching networks...or something. The Smart office was a bit infuriating about the whole thing. Which leads me to...

3. I wish the Smart office was a bit more friendly or helpful. Hey! This is my wish list. I can wish for anything that I want.

Digicell/BTL also sells a similar USB kit with the initial USB stick for $200. They ALSO have a Wi-Fi providing drive (Axesstel MV 110) with high speed. With an inital purchase for the unit of $365bzd, you can pay $79bzd per month and get up to 2MB of speed. THAT sounds very promising.

So what am I saying in a long drawn out boring way? You've got options. If you are currently using the internet in San Pedro, it is WELL worth it to take a trip down to BTL to find out what your additional options are. It might be worth it to try one of these mobile devices.

What was I posting about one year? Carole Goudreau, Getting My Hair Done. Pink stripe? WHAT was I thinking?

Oranges are one of Belize's biggest crops (along with sugar and bananas). And I'll be honest, they are not the prettiest fruit. They look nothing like the big, seedless, waxy, bright orange Sunkist fruit that I was used to in the States.

Here is a pile below. The green heap on the left right in front of the pineapples. They are certainly not going to be featured in any TV commercials for oranges.

But despite the appearance, Belize oranges are SWEET and tasty...the best, in my opinion, for juicing. So when Belikin decided to add a new flavor to its line-up...the combination sounded brilliant. A light summer ale with an orange twist. I mean, heck, I LOVE Blue Moon Belgian style beer that is always served with an orange slice. (I say Belgian style because Blue Moon is actually brewed by the US mega-company Molson Coors). I always order it when it's on tap.

(Picture snagged from www.Chaosinthekitchen.com)

Belikin Beer has already brewed two new beer flavors in 2012 (I hadn't seen one new one in my previous 5 years here). All of the new twists are based on locally grown flavors. WHAT A GREAT IDEA!

At Christmastime, we got Sorrel Stout. Warm and spicy, after my initial harsh review, it became a favorite of mine. It sold off shelves quickly and a second batch was ordered. (Now gone.)

For the Toledo Cacao Festival in May, Belikin unveiled Chocolate Stout. I really liked this one from the get-go...it had an INTENSE chocolate flavor. Though tasty, it is filling and one was certainly enough. Originally issued by the keg, and later by the bottle with a fancy gold foil topper (like a champagne bottle), I believe this one sold out too.

So now we have a summer time beer. Verano. What a super cute cap...a collectors item unto itself.

The beer is light in color and smells ever so slightly of oranges. I took a sip...

I was hoping for a very light beer with an citrus flavor. I didn't taste too much orange (and the two other people I had taste it didn't either) and there was a strange after taste. Almost like the flavor of Light House beer to me. (For my review of all the standard beers of Belize see: The King of Beers)

Not my new favorite but I love something different. Try it and let me know what you think. And I wonder what's next? A nice pumpkin spice stout for Halloween? An Independence Day Celebration Ale with Lime & Salt for September 21st? I've got some ideas...

Here is something that everyone loves. I mean...what is wrong with you if you don't like a rainbow?

Ahhhh...rainbow over Mata Rock's.

We've had rain since that. Last night was some SERIOUS thunderstorms and there is a tropical wave coming through right now. Doesn't mean rain ALL day. But we should see quite a bit.

I am still trying to highlight good spots to shop and look for souvenirs when you are visiting San Pedro, Belize. So let's get going...

My first featured spot was Graniel's Dreamland, a great place to find San Pedro-made Belizean hardwood crafts and furniture. It is absolutely a place you must stop when you're here. Another "must visit" is the Rum, Cigar and Coffee House on Middle Street just north of Graniel's (one block up). Everything about it is super cute.

Saul, the owner, opened the shop in this spot 21 years ago. He has been making and selling mixed Belizean liquors ever since. Distinctive products that are carried nowhere else.

And his signature mix is the Belize national drink, the Pantiripa. (Panty Ripper: Coconut rum and pineapple juice.) Love this sign outside and they usually have this design printed on a t-shirt. They are out of stock now but getting more in a few weeks. Definitely one of the best shirts sold in this San Pedro.

I'm guessing (a wild guess here) that it's a play on the old Coppertone logo. Don't be a pale face. I'm going to get a t-shirt when they come in.

One of my favorite parts of the shop are the free samples. You can taste all of the rum, local wines and liquors for free. Beware, trying all 7 of them will make you a bit light headed.

This one is my very favorite. It is delicious, creamy, coconuty Bailey's like drink.

And they roast coffee each morning..yes ROAST. They start with a green beans...Buy a cup for $2bzd and mix this rum cream in? Delicious.

Saul, the owner says you can stop by any morning for a fresh cup of coffee with a little kick.

They also have a cigar room with both Cuban (Belize has no embargo against Cuba) and Belizean cigars. I'm pretty sure you cannot bring the Cubans legally to the states but you can enjoy them while you are here.

They also sell the only Belizean cigars available. Hand rolled and produced in the Corozal area.

In the end, this store has unique products, very cute labelling and great souvenirs. Stop in and get a bit tipsy sipping free samples with Saul. Definitely get a t-shirt when the new order comes in. The Rum, Cigar & Coffee House is a place you want to stop in when you visit San Pedro.

Here is a picture of Saul Nunez in his shop...it isn't my best work but it's the only one I have. Tell him I sent you.

What was I posting about one year ago? Another Sail to Caye Caulker with Seaduced Adventures

So...it's been about one week now in my attempt to get a bit more fit. For some reason, sitting by the pool and on my couch all day and drinking beer all night wasn't quite getting me there. So I did an about face. Strict dieting (blah) and exercise. 10,000 steps a day is suggested all over the internet as something to aim for. Who knew 10,000 steps (pedometer worn only outside) was about 2 hours of walking a day? Ugh. Tedious.

One positive part (I guess)...it allows me to traipse all over the island with my bestest friend. Here are some of the places I've visited over the past few days.

Construction continues on the dock at Grand Colony...

And the huge dock continues to be a local favorite for swimming for kids of all ages...

The car wash by the Belize Yacht Club is relatively new. Wonder how busy this place gets? I guess it's both a car and golf cart wash.

Hurricane's Bar right in front of BC's.

A kid freaking me out playing dead man float in the water. We waited until she moved.

Belikin is giving out free samples of the Verano beer for those who haven't tried it. Always good to know when you can get something free...

A new building going up on middle street for the Bank Co-op that is currently across the street.

Down by Banyan Bay Resort.

Just up the beach...

A very pretty condo complex just a bit farther up. (Hi Ruth!)

And Grand Baymen apartments back by the fitness club seem almost done...

So for now, I'm giving this clean living thing a try. (My 39th birthday is within arms' grasp.) But...if in a few days, you see me eating a plate of BBQ and rice & beans and washing it down with a Belikin, please don't give me crap. I don't want to hear it.

What was I posting about one year ago? The first of my "expat series": How I Came To Belize

San Pedro can feel like a very small town at times. And if you live in (or around town) it's often easy to forget that Ambergris Caye is actually 25 miles long and the town? It's really just a small fraction of that. The caye actually extends all the way up to Mexico (and is only separated from the Yucatan Peninsula by a narrow canal dug by the Mayans hundreds and hundreds of years ago).

At the northern end of the island is Bacalar Chico Marine Reserve, a 11,000+ acre region protected in 1996 by the government of Belize and later named a UNESCO world heritage site due to its unique characteristics. The area is incredibly bio-diverse ranging from salt marshes to "beach forests" and an area where the barrier reef actually touches the shore. Bacalar Chico also contains the largest lagoon on our island, Laguna de Cantena. It's an important sea turtle nesting ground. And all six types of cats in Belize have been spotted here (including jaguars and pumas). All in all a very cool and remote place. I'm glad it is being protected.

This map is a bit crap but you get the point. (Town is all the way at the bottom where it says "San Pedro" and Bacalar Chico starts near the top in the Basil Jones area - about 13 miles north of town - and encompasses the whole top of the island. The pink line represents the reef.)

We took a walk on the ocean side at the very beginning of the reserve. Just by the welcome sign (show above) is Sueno del Mar. The ride up here by boat is maybe 30-40 minutes from town.

Sueno is an interesting/odd blend of posh residences...

and well meaning but slightly "off" amenities.

An interesting gym.

A smurf themed bar. Nothing about smurfs say "let's drink" to me. Or maybe everything about smurfs says have a stiff drink. I need to think about this one...

I'm guessing they are still a work in progress.

It is a 5 minute walk along the beach past a few very small houses like this one...

And while you can walk on the beach most of the way, you veer off onto this very pretty path lined with some kind of flower...

You just round the bend and come upon the beach you've been picturing when you dream of Belize. Tranquility Bay and the Tackle Box Bar/Restaurant have one choice piece of property. But more about this spot later...

Just a few hundred feet farther north is the Turtleman's House, a truly one of a kind place to stay when visiting Ambergris Caye. Perhaps for all of you that have been fantasizing about being in Gilligan's Island, Blue Lagoon (who needs Shades of Grey?) or Castaway...

Or daydreaming about taking your kids (who are currently glued to their PlayStations or cell phones) for a once in a lifetime experience checking out huge sea turtles with a marine biologist...

The main house is just across the (beautiful) beach.

One thing that struck me about my walk farther up was the number of houses. It is by no means crowded...really just a handful of homes and a few for sale signs. But I thought this was a reserve?

I was told that there were quite a few land owners before the land was put aside and, though there are a few restrictions, building a home is perfectly fine. Development gets sparser to no existent as you head north...

More about my walk a little way up the Bacalar Chico area tomorrow. Who knew that you could take a vacation and find a totally different world? Without even leaving Ambergris Caye.

This is definitely not a sign you see close to town.

Yesterday, I wrote about a walk I took "on the road less travelled" at the very beginning of Bacalar Chico Marine Reserve park at the northern end of Ambergris Caye. The walk was about an hour, we saw only one person at his home, no golf carts, no moving boats, a dock or two, some truly beautiful beaches, the reef barely a few hundred feet away and some of the most amazing ocean you will see anywhere on earth. GORGEOUS. Here are some more pictures...

We had just passed Tranquility Bay and then a few hundred feet north, Turtleman's House. (It looks super scenic at anytime of day...especially when the sun is rising over it.)

Many of the houses are wooden and many look uninhabited.

Never thought of using a boat as a coconut tree planter...

Did I mention how smitten I am with the beaches and the view?

Let's keep walking...

Uh oh...a mysterious bag filled with something white on the beach. Leave it and run. I mean, first stage a photo and then, RUN!

Most of the houses are closed up.

And separated by long stretches of empty beach.

And then this place...does anyone know what it is? Sort of looks like the Alamo, has a bar area in the downstairs...could be an older resort...but definitely closed.

As you get farther up, there are more and more turtle signs.

I didn't see any turtles but I hear it is their mating season so they are probably looking for a little privacy. And trust me, I was careful where I walked. Nothing would make you feel worse than stepping on a baby turtle nest.

About a mile up, you run into a lone house next to a point with a long dock and a windmill...the road veers inland a bit.

Time to head back down the beach...

Back to home sweet (temporary) home. Tranquility Bay is just beyond Turtleman's House (you can see the bar and restaurant out over the water). I am telling you...I can't get enough pictures of either place.

I thought that I knew Ambergris Caye but this northern part of the island is really a whole different world. One I don't want to leave...

And one I'm going to be visiting much more in the future.

I just (reluctantly) returned from a few amazing nights at Tranquility Bay Resort on northern Ambergris Caye. Located within the Bacalar Chico National Park, Tranquility is a small resort 13 miles north of San Pedro town. With only 10 cabanas on a perfectly private white sand beach, you almost feel like you are in another world. Yes, it is secluded but secluded in a perfect way. I wish I had never left.

I honestly have found the most beautiful beach I have ever seen on Ambergris Caye. THE BEST BEACH. I am not exaggerating. Grab one of the many beach chairs or a hammock and relax. The coast at Tranquility Bay even looks good when a summer thunderstorm is brewing. And look how close the reef is!

But let's back up a bit...The Tranquility Bay boat picks you up in town (minutes away from the air strip) and 30 minutes later you are sipping a welcome drink at the bar over the water. Carlos, the resort manager, is giving you a briefing on the resort and the tons of activity options you will have.

There are some huge advantages to staying this far from town. The reef is very close to the shore (as you move even farther north, it actually meets the land.) There is so little beach and boat traffic. You can kayak just off shore to the cut in the reef where manatees are known to frequent. There are tons of coral heads just feet from the beach...you can snorkel for days just there (perfect for kids). The beach is fantastic for swimming. And you have access to dive and snorkel sites that those who stay in town rarely see. Like a shipwreck just outside the reef...

Tranquility Bay is a full PADI certified dive resort (and located by the Basil Jones Cut on the map below). A great place to learn to dive away from the traffic of town.

The bar is a replica of one of the first bars in San Pedro Town, the Tacklebox Bar. Famous for its boat shaped bar and fish tank in the back deck, the original building was destroyed in 1998 by Hurricane Mitch. Based on pictures that I have seen, this is a faithful reproduction.

You can see the dock, the dive shop and restaurant/bar over the water through this hammock.

Here is the boat shaped bar and cool mural...

And the "aquarium" just below the restaurant's deck...

Breakfast (included with in your stay) is served each morning over the water.

At night this area is lit and even more incredible. Huge tarpon and permit hover by the lights feeding on small fish and shrimp. Eagle rays flap on top of the water. You can spend a few hours sipping cocktails just watching the activity. And many people do. The sky is pitch black and filled with stars...San Pedro town just a dim glow on the southern horizon.

Okay...so the location and the restaurant are amazing. But Tranquility Bay also has 10 super cute and surprisingly roomy cabanas. There are four different types: from the one bedroom with additional loft (shown below) to the Prime Minister's suite. Each bedroom is fully A/C-ed but we hardly needed it. You are so close to the beach and the breeze felt so good. For much more beautiful pictures than mine and more specifics, check out their website, Tranquility Bay Resort.

There is what they call an efficiency kitchen in each with a microwave, coffee machine, sink and refrigerator for preparing snacks, your morning coffee or keeping your drinks cold. We loved our cabana. Very clean, tons of space, lots of towels, GREAT beds...I haven't slept this well in a while.

And look at the view from the porch. I mean...COME ON!

Forgot your sunblock in your room? It's literally a 20 step walk away.

So...if you need to hit a different bar each night or shop all day in gift shops, if you can't miss an episode of the Kardashians or you are someone who likes to wear a coat and tie to dinner, Tranquility Bay is not the spot for you. But if you love a gorgeous beach, water sports, an incredibly friendly (but unobtrusive) staff, good food and peace & quiet, I think this might be your idea of paradise. You can keep active for your whole trip or just lounge on the beach. I will definitely be back.

And here are just a few more pictures. (You are getting off easy. I have about 10,000 more.)

Hey...that's me!

The view from my beach chair...

The view down the beach from the aforementioned beach chair north.

Feel free to call me Prime Minister.

To see my walks south and north from Tranquility Bay check out: #1 The Road Less Travelled and #2 Walk in Bacalar Chico or feel free to emails me, as always, with any questions.

Recently when I ask any lady in town where she got her cute, new blouse/skirt/dress, the answer seems to be the same. "Gial, the pacas. Only $2BZD". Huh? $2bzd ($1USD) for that cute real cotton pair of shorts? IMPOSSIBLE!

And it's usually followed up with some far-fetched statement like this: "I also snagged two pairs of Old Navy shorts, a Calvin Klein dress and a Tommy Bahama shirt for an only $14bzd more".   Say what? How am I missing this phenomena?

Well for one, I am probably a year or so behind the Ambergris trends...the San Pedro "cool kids". Two, my "look" for the past year has been one faithful pair of gym shorts and many old t-shirts.   Ugh.

But this sounds intriguing...what are these mysterious places that have popped up all over town? Why are half the women of San Pedro going crazy for them? Why is early morning Saturday the time to get out there and shop?  Time to check the pacas.

I wrote a bit about my apparel shopping in San Pedro a few months ago, about hitting the used clothing stores. What's different about these places?

We first stopped by two right near the high school just north of town. The first was closed. The sign advertised it as a "nuevo pacas". There were about 6 ladies inside picking through a HUGE pile of clothes. Apparently, they close Friday afternoons to ready the new inventory for Saturday morning when the doors open. 8AM!

Apparently this is a good sign. HUGE bundles of new inventory from the U.S. come weekly...this is where the good stuff is. "Paca" is actually the Spanish word for bale.

Next, we went down this side street (the one where the Computer Geeks is located) to the largest store of this type. (None of these places seem to have names.)

This one was open and, mostly, it's a very large used clothing store. Some of the items have labels still on them...from the Gap or a department store, but most of the items are used. And you are going to need to do lots of searching.

We did see quite a few "brand names" like Ann Taylor and Calvin Klein. My sources are not lying.

There are two more shops on the Middle Street headed into town. This one, which was also closed for pre-Saturday preparation. A name! Michelle's.

And the other one, a bit more expensive, is located across from Micky's. It's called American Apparel.

I also hear that there are a few on Back Street.

So...if you love searching through racks for that perfect item and you love bargain shopping, th pacas circuit might be your perfect Saturday morning. Hit the stores and then maybe a nice breakfast at your favorite place using all the money you saved.

I bet it's a bit of a fight. A regular fracas at the pacas. (Get it? Those words rhyme!) I'm not sure that I am up to it just yet. But if you go...definitely let me know what you find.

I'll be outside enjoying this GORGEOUS weather.

And I apologize for letting you know late. But next week, you can be on the pacas queue bright and early.

I shop at one of my favorite stores La Divinia Providencia in Escalante at least four times a week. If you haven't been, you can read about my love for these guys (and their location) here if you like. They are a classic neighborhood grocery store and restaurant...super friendly and they serve some KILLER stuffed jalapenos each night.

I have passed this sign inside quite a few times before. It's taped right over the frozen chicken and always catches my eye.

And since I am trying to get just a little bit fitter (the stuffed jalapenos have something to do with that)...I thought I'd figure out what this was all about. Maybe I need to start dead lifting. Spinning? So five years ago. Zumba? So last week. Maybe lifting cement blocks (yes...the kind you see them lifting in prison movies, a sort of felon fitness) might be a road I should explore. This John Mader looks like he's in pretty good shape.

Here is the set up on the front lawn of LDP. Two different sized barbells.

And the wooden bench for bench pressing.

The blue table is used most Sunday afternoon for a ROWDY game of dominoes and beer or rum drinking. Now there is an activity I can really get behind.

Yikes.

A few guys were watching us circle the dumbbells...and they volunteered one who could lift it.

He did a nice dead lift...but his arms were definitely shaking when he got it up. Impressive nonetheless.

My friend Jamie decided to try it next. Mistake. When asked for a quote after the attempt with the barbell, she simply said "I would not recommend it". And today she woke up with an extremely sore/pulled back. I'm not touching that thing.

Oh well...guess I'll hold off on our matching neck tattoos.

This dog (one of the 4 or 5 little guys that live at LDP...the rat pack, if you will) was bored by our antics. Or maybe just disappointed by what wimps we are.

Side note: I think I may have found the reigning champ, John Mader on Facebook...if he currently has a beard, wears leather chaps and his job title is Boss at Hustling. Awesome. Feel free to stop by LDP to take his title.

What was I posting about one year ago? I LOVE Cave Tubing and Zip Lining with Searious Adventures! So, so fun...I wish I was doing it right now.

Lobsterfest Caye Caulker 2012: A Very Different Feel From The Festival in San Pedro

From Protest to Plaque: Our Town Monument, The San Pedro Clock Tower

The Trip Out to the Cayo District and An INCREDIBLE Resort In the Mountains

Hidden Valley Inn: Maybe I AM Outdoorsy

Hidden Valley Inn: It's Easy Being Outdoorsy When You are Living Like This

Eating Lunch in Belmopan

The Dog Days Of Summer? Lizard Parts and Empty Pools

You Voted For My Lunch in Town and Noticing Some Changes

A Morning Walk...A Little Exercise and Lots of Wildlife

2012 Coral Reef Summer Camp Graduates TONS of Kids

Things I Saw Yesterday: A Beautiful Day

Follow-Up: The Internet That I Use in San Pedro

Tasting Belikin's New Verano Beer & A Rainbow Over the Sea

A Fun Shopping Experience In San Pedro: The Rum, Cigar and Coffee Shop

Walking, Walking and More Walking & Some Pictures: 10,000 Steps a Day Ain't Easy

The Road Less Travelled: A Walk Into Bacalar Chico Marine Reserve, Ambergris Caye

A Walk in Bacalar Chico/Northern Ambergris Caye Continues...

Tranquility Bay Resort: Ahhhh...The Beach I've Been Looking For

Saturday Morning Shopping: Hitting The "Pacas" Circuit

Funny to Me: Power Lifting at La Divinia Providencia